Prepare to be inspired by the incredible journey of Edward Enninful, a man who has left an indelible mark on the fashion industry and beyond.
Enninful's story began on a fateful day in 1988 when he was scouted on the London Underground, an event that would change the course of his life forever. As a young Ghanaian teenager, newly arrived in Britain, he was thrust into the vibrant creative scene of the 90s. From modeling to styling, and eventually becoming the fashion director of i-D magazine at just 18 years old, Enninful's rise was nothing short of remarkable.
Recalling those early days, Enninful paints a picture of a vibrant and inclusive era. He speaks of meeting iconic figures like Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, and how they all came together across disciplines, creating a raw and energetic atmosphere. But here's where it gets controversial: Enninful believes that Britain, and indeed the world, has become less tolerant in recent years.
"I feel like we're less tolerant now than we were in the 90s," he says, highlighting the rise of far-right ideologies, the backlash against progressive movements, and the reassertion of Eurocentric beauty standards. It's a stark contrast to the optimism of the Tony Blair era, and a far cry from the days when the Union Jack symbolized Cool Britannia.
Enninful's response to this regression has been to celebrate culture in all its diversity. His first issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017 was a testament to this, featuring a diverse range of individuals including Sadiq Khan, Skepta, Steve McQueen, and Zadie Smith. "People with a voice should use it," he asserts, emphasizing the importance of speaking out against immigration restrictions and celebrating the opportunities that a lenient country like Britain provides.
Enninful finds hope in the younger generation, believing they are more aware and open-minded than their predecessors. He takes comfort in their discussions about unconscious bias, a term he himself was unfamiliar with during his early career.
When we meet Enninful at Kensington Roof Gardens, he is at ease, dressed in his signature monochrome style. He reminisces about the 90s, when he used to party at the very same spot, and tells us about the flamingos that once roamed the gardens.
Enninful's career has been defined by boldness and inclusivity. He was the first man, black man, gay man, and disabled gay man of color to take the helm at British Vogue. His covers featured a diverse range of models, challenging the industry's norms and proving that inclusivity is not only the right thing to do, but also good for business.
Recently, Enninful launched his creative company, EE72, and its magazine, 72, marking a new chapter in his career. He aims to continue as a "disruptor," challenging the status quo just as he has always done. Growing up in a predominantly black community in Ghana, and then becoming a minority in England, Enninful developed a unique perspective, giving him a sense of duality and an understanding of both the inside and outside perspectives.
Despite the challenges he has faced, including bouts of depression and eye operations that left him with partial sight, Enninful exudes a calm and soft-spoken demeanor. He has refused to be typecast, moving beyond the fashion world to curate exhibitions at Tate Britain and host talks at Art Basel.
Enninful's collaboration with Tate Britain on their seminal 90s exhibition is a testament to his ability to bring people together and shine a light on artists who may have been overlooked at the time. He believes that institutions must think outside the box and collaborate with diverse talent to ensure their relevance and survival.
Could Enninful's collaborative model be the key to revitalizing cash-strapped museums and galleries? He certainly thinks so, and his enthusiasm is infectious.
Enninful's influence extends far beyond the fashion industry. For the launch of 72, he called on friends like Julia Roberts, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Oprah Winfrey, and his company now employs 25 people across London and New York, with plans to expand into podcasts and film.
His journey is a powerful reminder of the importance of pursuing your passions and staying true to yourself. Despite facing adversity and a strained relationship with his father, Enninful has risen to become one of the world's most influential creative power brokers.
What would the Edward Enninful of the 90s think of his present-day self? He laughs, imagining the shock and pride he would feel. Back then, he was anti-establishment, but now, he recognizes the power of institutions and the impact he can have within them.
"Fear isn't an option," he says, reflecting on the challenges he has overcome. "People have underestimated me my whole career, but nothing can stop me once I've made up my mind."
Edward Enninful's story is a testament to resilience, inclusivity, and the power of pursuing your passions. It's a story that inspires us to challenge the status quo and embrace diversity in all its forms.