The fashion world has been abuzz with the latest controversy surrounding cultural appropriation, this time involving the iconic Ralph Lauren brand. The recent Paris Fashion Week showcase of their Fall 2026 collection sparked a viral debate, with a particular focus on the accessories adorning the models.
The Power of Accessories
While the runway outfits were undoubtedly stunning, it was the long silver dangling earrings, known as 'jhumkas', that truly captured the attention of viewers and social media users alike. These earrings, with their distinctive bell-shaped design, have a rich history dating back to 300 BCE and are deeply rooted in the cultural heritage of the Indian subcontinent. Their presence on the Western runway has reignited discussions about cultural borrowing and the importance of acknowledging the origins of such iconic pieces.
A Backlash on Social Media
Social media platforms became a battleground for opinions, with many users expressing their disappointment and frustration. Juggernaut founder and CEO Snigdha Sur took to X, formerly known as Twitter, to call out Ralph Lauren for what she perceived as a blatant act of cultural appropriation. She accused the brand of 'monetizing, rebranding, and selling' Indian fashion for significant profit without properly crediting the country or its culture. This sentiment was echoed by numerous other users, with one commenting, 'Are they calling it the Scandinavian chandeliers yet?' Another user expressed their anger, stating, 'No this is actually pissing me off. All Western designers do is steal.'
The Brand's Response
In a surprising twist, Ralph Lauren revealed that the jewelry pieces were crafted by Native American designers Neil Zarama, Jimmy Begay, and TÓPA as part of their Authentic Makers and Artist in Residence programs. This revelation adds a layer of complexity to the debate, as it challenges the notion that Western designers are solely responsible for cultural appropriation. It raises questions about the role of collaboration and the potential for cross-cultural exchange in the fashion industry.
A Pattern of Cultural Misappropriation?
This incident is not an isolated case. Western brands and designers have a history of appropriating Indian cultural objects without proper attribution. Sophie Buhai, an LA-based jeweler, recently faced similar criticism for her 'Nadia' earrings, which were inspired by 'traditional Indian artistry' but failed to credit any Indian artists. Additionally, luxury brands like Prada and Dior have also been called out for their appropriation of Indian designs, with Prada's T-strap sandals resembling Kolhapuri chappals and Dior's ivory and gold coat featuring Lucknow's traditional mukaish embroidery.
The Importance of Acknowledgement
What makes this debate particularly fascinating is the deeper question it raises about cultural appreciation versus appropriation. While some may argue that inspiration can be drawn from various cultures, the key lies in proper acknowledgment and respect. The jhumka, with its ancient origins and cultural significance, deserves to be celebrated and credited, especially when it becomes a trend in Western fashion. As an observer, I believe that this controversy highlights the need for greater awareness and sensitivity in the fashion industry, ensuring that cultural heritage is not exploited but rather celebrated and shared with proper recognition.
A Step Towards Change?
As we reflect on this incident, it is evident that the fashion industry has a long way to go in terms of cultural sensitivity and representation. However, these debates and discussions are crucial steps towards creating a more inclusive and respectful environment. By engaging in open dialogue and holding brands accountable, we can work towards a future where cultural appropriation is replaced by appreciation and collaboration.
